Twelve days, three very different places
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Some trips are about seeing everything. This one was about soaking it in: a pint in a London pub, a glass of wine on a canal boat, a long afternoon at a café table just watching the world go by.
We spent twelve days across England and the Netherlands: four in London, four with friends in Bolsover, a small market town in Derbyshire, and four in Amsterdam. Three places, three completely different paces. Here's what we did, what we ate, what I brought home, and what I'd tell you before you go.
London: pubs, a view from the clouds, and Borough Market
We started in London, and honestly, the pubs set the tone for the whole trip. There's something about a London pub that makes you want to stay for one more: the dark wood, the low ceilings, everyone spilling out onto the sidewalk with a pint on a warm evening. I wouldn’t say I’m a big beer drinker, but England Maddie LOVES a pint.
Cocktails at the top of the Shard
One afternoon we dressed up and went to GŎNG, the bar on level 52 of the Shangri-La hotel inside the Shard. It's the highest hotel bar in Western Europe, and the view is every bit as dramatic as you'd hope. London just keeps going in every direction, all the way to the horizon.
The cocktails are creative and leaned into Asian flavors. The menu was a playful trip around the world, with each page themed around a different country. I have a hard time giving a recommendation because they are all SO unique and delicious. The menu describes each cocktail in great detail so you’re sure to find one that speaks to you. One of them came poured tableside from a sculpted white vessel, which felt very extra in the best way. Is it pricey? Yes. Was it worth it for the view alone? Also yes.
Wandering Borough Market
Borough Market is one of London's oldest food markets, tucked under the railway arches next to Southwark Cathedral. We walked through slowly, sampling as we went. We stopped at Bedales of Borough for croquettes and a glass of rosé. It’s the perfect spot for people watching. It's busy, a little chaotic, and completely worth it.
The Abbey Road moment
My favorite London memory wasn't on any itinerary. At Abbey Road, we watched a group of tourists recreate the famous album-cover walk across the crosswalk in full costume, completely committed to the bit while London traffic waited (patiently-ish) for them. It was ridiculous and joyful, and I still smile thinking about it.
Bolsover: the slow middle chapter
After the buzz of London, Bolsover felt like an exhale. It's a small market town in Derbyshire, and we were there to see friends. Georgie and I met 12 years ago when she participated in the Camp America program and she and her husband were lovely enough to let us stay with them. Staying with people who actually live somewhere is the best way to travel. You skip the tourist version and get the real one. We spent our days walking the high street, popping into shops, and stopping for drinks whenever the mood struck.
Amsterdam: canals, cheese, and café tables
We flew from Manchester to Amsterdam for the last leg, and I fell for this city fast. The food, the light on the water, the narrow houses leaning into each other: everything just has a feel to it. I had no idea I would love this city so much.
Our favorite thing to do was simply walk. Pick a canal, follow it, and get happily lost. Every bridge is a photo op, every corner has a café, and the bikes will keep you alert (seriously, look both ways in the bike lane). One day when I return, I’ll be brave enough to rent a bike.
A canal cruise with unlimited wine and cheese
Yes, this is real, and yes, you should do it. We booked a canal cruise that came with unlimited wine and a Dutch cheese board, and floated through the city with a glass in hand while the guide pointed out the sights. We did a sunset cruise with Pure Boats and could not recommend it enough. It’s a fully covered boat which came in handy as the day of our cruise was the rainiest day of the trip! Watching some of the open-air boats go by and seeing the passengers in ponchos holding umbrellas made me grateful to have booked with Pure Boats. We sailed on the “Stan Huygens” and had the best captain and guide. It's touristy in the best possible way.
The Pantry, and a bitterballen obsession
My favorite meal of the entire trip was at The Pantry, a cozy little spot near Leidseplein serving traditional Dutch home cooking. It feels like eating in someone's Dutch living room: dark wood, old paintings, candlelight. I had the salmon with lobster sauce, and while not the most aesthetic dish, it was exactly the kind of hearty, comforting meal you want after a day of walking.
A confession: I did not love stroopwafels. I know! But I made up for it with bitterballen, the crispy, fried little balls of meaty, gravy-like filling you dip in mustard. I ordered them every chance I got.
What I brought home
I'm not a big souvenir person, but I came home with two things I'm already using and loving.
StoryTiles for my travel gallery wall
StoryTiles is an Amsterdam brand that puts a modern, playful spin on the classic Dutch Delft tile. Each one is hand-baked in the Netherlands and has a little hanging hook on the back. I picked up one for London and one for Amsterdam to add to my travel gallery wall at home, and I love that each city gets its own tiny piece of art. Their shop on the Singel canal, in the Nine Streets neighborhood, is worth a visit in person. I also brought my mom home a tile as a little gift—she loved it!
The tiles I bought:
Fugazzi Angel Dust
Fugazzi is a niche fragrance house from Amsterdam, and Angel Dust is its bestseller. It's a soft, skin-close scent built around cashmeran, with bergamot, pepper and white amber. It doesn't shout; it just smells like you, but better. Every time I wear it now, I'm back on a canal. I love buying a new scent on a big trip because it serves as a constant reminder.
Until next time
London gave us the energy, Bolsover gave us the people, and Amsterdam gave us the moments I keep replaying. If you've been to any of these places, tell me your favorite spot in the comments. I'm already making a list for next time.
